Sumatra Coffee

Sumatra is a large island in Western Indonesia and one of the country’s major coffee-producing regions (Sumatra grows about 70% of all Indonesian coffee). Indonesia was the fourth biggest coffee producer in 2022. Only Brazil, Vietnam, and Columbia produced more coffee. 

While Indonesia has no chance to beat Vietnam or Brazil, it might one day overtake Colombian coffee and has nothing to fear from the countries in lower positions.

But what makes great coffee from the Indonesian Island of Sumatra so popular? How does it compare to coffees from South America, East Africa, and other countries from the coffee belt? 

If you are a Starbucks lover, you are already familiar with Sumatra coffee (Starbucks is one of the biggest buyers of Sumatran beans). Even if not, you most likely came across Sumatran coffee. If you have ever wondered what Sumatran coffee is, why it's so popular, and how to best roast and brew it, this article has all the answers.

Coffee was grown early in Indonesia, but not immediately in Sumatra. The first coffee plants were grown on Java during the early 1700s after some less successful attempts in the late 1600s. This was much earlier than in some countries in Latin America. 

Until the 1840s, coffee from Indonesia fetched fairly good prices in Europe - but then Brazil and other countries started entering the coffee market. Sadly, not all coffee farmers grew coffee voluntarily between 1830 and around 1870 - the Dutch government forced them to do so because it was profitable. This was due to the Cultivation System, which was in place for the Dutch East Indies colony (now called Indonesia). It also influenced indigo and sugar production and was highly exploitative.

It wasn’t until 1888 that the first coffee plants were grown on Sumatra near Lake Toba. In 1924, coffee production started in the Gayo highland (Aceh) near Lake Laut Tawar, and from then on, more and more coffee plantations popped up on Sumatra because of the high altitudes and great soil made for perfect growing conditions.

In 1915, Robusta coffee beans were introduced to Sumatra. Until then, Sumatra had only grown Arabica coffee. In the 1920s, Sumatra overtook Java as the biggest grower of Indonesian robusta beans.

In the first half of the 20th century, like most other coffee-producing countries, Sumatran coffee farmers faced challenges, including diseases like coffee leaf rust, volatile market prices, and the effects of two World Wars. In addition, in 1945, Indonesia declared independence, which the Dutch didn't immediately recognize. The following Indonesian War of Independence lasted until 1949 and harmed Sumatran coffee farmers.

In the second half of the 20th century, Sumatra's coffee industry started to get back on its feet. It has always been recognized as one of the most resilient coffee-producing countries, no matter what the world threw at the country.

Today, about 95% of all Sumatra coffee bean plantations are owned by smallholders, meaning big corporations don't have much say regarding Sumatra coffees. This is beneficial for farms owned by families and small businesses.

The Island of Sumatra produces a variety of single origin coffees with a unique taste, but most have a few things in common. Thanks to the high altitude and nutrient-rich soils, Sumatran coffee beans are of high quality and usually produce a cup of full-bodied coffee with a rich flavor, and a rich aroma. 

The taste includes earthy notes, some sweetness, and hints of chocolate. Depending on the region, you can also find some interesting flavors, like notes of bell pepper, wild mushrooms, balsamic vinegar, and spicy herbs.

Sumatran coffee has a low acidity. 

The balanced body and low acidity of Sumatra coffee beans are why you'll often see Sumatra coffee beans in coffee blends, in addition to some high-quality single-origin coffees.

While some coffee beans can be roasted on any level, Sumatra coffee beans are best as a medium roast or dark roast, with dark being very common. A medium roast or a dark roast brings out the best in these beans and gives the coffee a full body with a balanced taste.

The unique processing method called giling basah (wet-hulling), generally used in Sumatra, is also why medium and dark roasts work best. More about that method further below. While a light roast might work for some Sumatran coffee beans, it's not very common because Sumatran coffee is better if you bring out some of its sweetness with a medium roast or dark roast.

Aceh

Altitude: 800-1,600 meters above sea level

Varieties: Mainly Arabica

Flavor Profile: Sumatra coffee from Aceh is full-bodied and has earthy flavor, often with herbal and spicy notes and low to moderate acidity. There are also coffees with notes of licorice, tobacco, and tropical fruit.

Good to know: Aceh is the northernmost coffee-producing region in Sumatra. In 2003, Nespresso launched its AAA Sustainable Quality™ Program in Aceh to build direct relationships with farmers.

Gayo

Altitude: 1,110-1,600 meters above sea level

Varieties: Mainly Arabica

Flavor Profile: Coffee from Gayo is often lighter-bodied than other Sumatran coffees. It tends to have a light acidity, and flavors can include herbal, floral, and fruity notes.

Good to know: Gayo is part of the Aceh region but deserves a special mention. It is close to Lake Tawar, but that's not what makes it special. In Indonesia, the EU, and the UK, coffee from Gayo is registered as a Geographical Indication (Kopi Arabika Gayo), so no other coffee is allowed to use the name Gayo.

Lintong Nihuta

Altitude: 1000-1600 meters above sea level

Varieties: Mainly Arabica 

Flavor Profile: Coffee from Lintong Nihuta usually has a medium body and moderate acidity with earthy, herbal, and fruity notes.

Good to know: Coffee from Lintong is in the South-West of Lake Toba in Northern Sumatra. Lake Toba is the largest volcanic lake AND one of the deepest lakes in the world. It's approximately 505 meters deep and the caldera of a supervolcano whose explosion was catastrophic and caused a volcanic winter around 73-74,000 years ago.

Northern Sumatra

Altitude: 1,000 and 2,000 meters above sea level

Varieties: Mainly Arabica 

Flavor Profile: Coffee grown in Northern Sumatra has a medium body, low acidity, and notes of sweet chocolate and licorice tones. The aroma is usually earthy.

Good to know: Northern Sumatra is home to Sumatra Mandheling coffee, produced by the Mandailing people (which gave the coffee its name) in the Tapanuli region. Sumatra Mandheling is a trade name, so only coffee grown in Tapanuli can use it.

Lampung

Altitude: While Lampung can reach over 2,000 masl, coffee farms in Lampung are usually found at medium to low altitudes.

Varieties: Mainly Robusta

Flavor Profile: Robusta coffees from Lampung have a strong and bold, unique flavor with lower acidity than Sumatran Arabica coffees.

Good to know: This region is home to the famous Krakatoa volcano, which erupted violently in 1883. The eruption could be heard in Australia and was followed by multiple tsunamis.

Sumatra Coffee Varietals

Typica 

Typica was the original Arabica coffee that was first grown in Indonesia. Still, today, you'll only find it grown at higher altitudes and not as much as before. In the 1880s, a coffee disease decimated much of Indonesia's Typica coffee plants, so more disease-resistant varieties were introduced. Typica has adapted well to Sumatra's climate and produces a cup with mild acidity, medium body, and a range of nuanced flavors.

Caturra 

Caturra is a natural mutation of Bourbon. It's known for its compact size, ideal for farmers interested in high-density planting. Caturra isn't as common as other varieties in Sumatra, but these beans produce some good coffees with a pleasant sweetness, a medium body, and bright acidity.

Catimor 

Catimor comes in different varieties as a cross between arabica and robusta. Sumatra grows a type called Ateng-Jaluk. It is resistant to diseases and can cause heated discussions in coffee-lover circles. Catimor flavors in Sumatra range from fruity and floral to nutty and chocolatey.

Linie-S (Also Lini S)

Linie-S is a name you might not have heard before. It isn't just one specific bean but a group name for various Arabica varieties adapted to Sumatran microclimates. You may not hear their unique names outside of India (where they were created) and Sumatra. Linie-S beans are interesting and have a variety of different flavor profiles.

TimTim

TimTim (also: Timor Timur, Hibrido de Timor, or Timor Hybrid) is a natural hybrid of Arabica and Robusta. TimTim is popular because of its disease resistance and hardiness. It isn’t as sweet as other Arabica coffees but has a full body, low to moderate acidity, and earthy, nutty, and chocolatey flavors.

Ateng

Ateng is a group of Arabica coffee varieties, including Jember and Kartika. They are known for their adaptability to local growing conditions. Depending on the specific sub-variety and growing region, they come in various flavors and characteristics.

While Sumatra's humid climate with plenty of rain is perfect for growing coffee trees, the weather is not ideal for drying a coffee cherry, why is why dry processed coffee isn't common. There's just too much rain and humidity.

That's why giling basah is Sumatra's main coffee processing method. Giling basah, known as wet-hulling process, is much faster than natural processing. This is how giling basah works:

• A machine hulls the coffee cherry while it’s still wet.
• The green coffee beans are fermented (in a woven bag) for a night to break down the mucilage.
• The green coffee beans are then washed to remove the remaining mucilage.
• Beans are dried naturally on a parchment layer for a few hours until they reach a moisture content of about 50%.
• The beans are then fully dried in a machine.

The giling basah processing method is unique to Sumatra, and is why you tend to find earthy notes and hints of tobacco in Sumatran coffees.

As Sumatran coffees mainly come medium and dark roasted, these premium coffees are excellent as espresso. However, if you are a coffee drinker who has never made an espresso with wet-hulled ground coffee, you might need a few attempts to get it right. Things to keep in mind:

• Don't use boiling water; let it cool down a little, as hot water isn't good for the heavy body of Sumatran coffees.
• Don’t run shots for too long.

If you don't have a proper Espresso machine at home, you can also use an Aeropress or a stovetop espresso maker to brew Sumatran coffee.

A good alternative to a hot beverage is a Sumatran cold brew. As mentioned, Sumatra coffee generally has a low acidity, which means a cold brew will be very smooth but full of flavor. It's a great base for a nice iced coffee, too.